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In the spring of 2017, I traveled around Sudan exploring the country’s thriving Sufi community. I attended massive Sufi gatherings, multi-day-long festivals, and Sufism’s holy sites, as well as private Sufi meet-ups in villages and people’s backyards. What I discovered were majestic locations, soulful songs, passionate dances, and most importantly kind and generous people, who welcomed me as if I was one of their own. Before long, I was singing and dancing with them.

Sufis, known as Tasawwuf in the Arabic-speaking world, are the mystics of Islam. They believe in reincarnation and a mysterious world between heaven and earth, which can be visited through deep meditation and the performance of “Zikr”. Sufis believe that their Sheikhs (religious leaders of Sufism) and saints are immortal and can hear their songs and music even in their graves, therefore, Sufi rituals usually take place in or around cemeteries. Sufism is spread out in virtually every Islamic country, however, it compiles only about 5% of the world's Muslim population. Sudan boasts a particularly strong and influential Sufi community which is said to be the largest in the world. A popular Sudanese saying only confirms their strong presence in the country - "If there is a family in Sudan, of which at least one member is not a Sufi, they are not Sudanese".

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#1

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Participant in a Sufi gathering. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#2

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Young Sufi devotee sports a tiger-print mantle at the weekly Sufi gathering in Omdurman, Sudan.

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#3

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Participant of the Sufi gathering dances waving a traditional Sufi stick. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#4

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

People perform Zikr – a religious Sufi ritual that involves dancing and chanting religious texts. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#5

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Every Friday afternoon hundreds of Sufis gather at Hamad El Neel cemetery. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#6

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sudanese brothers in Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#7

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Men and women dance in front of a Sufi tomb in the village of Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#8

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Khatmiya mosque with Taka mountains in the background. Kassala, Sudan.

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#9

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Men wave wooden sticks as they approach the Khatmiya mosque. Kasala, Sudan.

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#10

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Young Sufi adherent in the Sufi festival in Kasala, Sudan.

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#11

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

The word Zikr in Sudanese Arabic means remembrance of God.

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#12

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Participant in the Sufi gathering. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#13

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufis kneel for an evening prayer. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#14

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Portrait of a young Sufi devotee observing the evening prayer from above. Kassala, Sudan.

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#15

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Hundreds of Sufi devotees participate in the evening prayer. Kassala, Sudan.

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#16

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

A man walks in Hamad El Neel cemetery where the weekly Sufi gatherings take place. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#17

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

People sing and pray as they sit among the tombstones. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#18

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufi tombs near the village of Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#19

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Various tribes arrive at the festival of Sufism in Kassala, Sudan.

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#20

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

A young boy prays at the crumbling Khatmiya mosque. Kassala, Sudan.

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#21

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Esfand is being burned during the rituals. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#22

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Music continues way past midnight around Hamad El Neel mausoleum. Omdurman.

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#23

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Man holds his prayer beads. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#24

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufis play Daf - a large-frame drum native to the Middle East and Africa.

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#25

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Men pray inside the Sufi tomb in Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#26

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Women and men inside visit their beloved saint at a Sufi tomb in Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#27

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

People arrive from all corners of Sudan to take part in the Sufi festival in Kasala, Sudan.

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#28

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufi tribe shows off their traditional sharp-as-a-razor sword. Kassala, Sudan.

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#29

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sweat covers the faces of the most passionate dancers. Kassala, Sudan.

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#30

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Kids observe the festivities from the foothills of the Taka mountains. Kassala, Sudan.

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#31

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufis gathered around Hamed El-Nil mausoleum listen to the songs echoing from the inside. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#32

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Drums kick off the weekly Sufi gathering in Hamad Al Neel cemetery. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#33

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Man holds a traditional Sufi stick. Omdurman, Sudan.

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#34

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Songs echo inside the Sufi tomb in Abu Haraz, Sudan.

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#35

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Worshipers sing traditional Sufi songs. Kassala, Sudan.

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#36

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Crowds gathered around Khatmiya mosque. Kasala, Sudan.

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#37

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Kids play at the foothills of the Taka mountains. Kasala, Sudan.

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#38

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Delivery of fresh drinking water for the participants of the Sufi festival. Kasala, Sudan.

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#39

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Worshipers sing traditional Sufi songs. Kassala, Sudan.

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#40

Dancing With The Dead: A Journey Back In Time With The Sufis Of Sudan

Sufis enjoy a drink of water. Kassala, Sudan.

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